In Bukedi sub-region, elders have fond memories of finger millet: in the good old days, they made millet beer from the grain and served it at weddings. They mingled millet bread, made porridge and ate these as part of their daily nutritional mix. This nutritional-rich crop is loved in many parts of the country, including in western Uganda where it is loved so much by Basiita clan and there are claims that they exchanged the throne for it. In wider Teso, they enjoy ataapa (millet bread) and porridge called akouma from the grain. In the north, they enjoy it with fish.
Yet this delicacy is under threat as traditional foods decline in production and consumption. In the press recently, elders from Bukedi-subregion sounded a warning over disinterest by young farmers in growing finger millet: “Millet was part of our subregion’s cultural identity…but today this once staple crop is no longer the dominant feature in our fields”.
Indeed, Uganda Bureau of Statistics (UBOS), in the annual statistical abstract, reports that production of millet has plummeted by nearly half from 142,000 tons in 2018 to a meagre 70,000 tons in 2021. The decline in millet production and consumption is a portrait of a dangerous trend where Ugandans are turning their backs on traditional crops that for many years had been a bedrock of nutritional value, culture, and were able to withstand erratic changes in weather
On top of millet, other disappearing crops include yams, mushrooms, sorghum, amaranth, pumpkin leaves, cowpea, and African night shade. Losing these foods means ordinary people have lost the privilege to just walk in their garden and guarantee their children’s nutrition. Many parents today buy energy enhancers and supplements from shops.According to the UN Food and Agriculture Organisation, finger millet’s value goes beyond nutrition to helping farmers adapt to climate change crisis. Millet thrives in extreme heat and minimal rainfall conditions. On nutrition, millets, particularly finger millet, are rich in calcium, carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. They are good as energy enhancers and diabetes management.
The disappearance of these foods leaves our food systems vulnerable. With extreme weather events already hampering crop productivity and increasing pest and disease incidents, we should think quickly about how to help farmers love these crops again. Most farmers are turning away either because soil is failing, or the market prospects have become very low for these crops. Traditional media and digital media advertising has convinced us that fast food rather than slow food is the way to go.
Policymakers should prioritise these underutilised crops through supportive policies, actively collaborate with farmers and the agri-food sector to boost production of these nutrient-dense, climate-resilient crops.
We need to increase investment in research and extension services. Many of these crops are indigenous to specific regions and have been sidelined in research and development efforts. Their proven resistance to drought and diseases, pest tolerance, and ability to thrive in poor soils make them invaluable assets.
The country should also develop community-based processing facilities to support value addition to market the crops commercially viable and promote continued cultivation. When growing and processing happens in proximity, it creates an efficient, sustainable system that benefits local producers.
Sensitization is key. We need to build awareness about these crops’ multiple benefits among value chain actors and consumers. Campaigns to show that one is better off eating slow food than fast food should be encouraged. By providing reliable advice to growers and supporting technologies that help these crops cope with extreme weather changes, we can create a more resilient food system.
We can’t continue with business as usual if we want to build a food system that can withstand shocks while ensuring food and nutrition security. Our traditional crops, far from being relics of the past, may well be the key to our future food security, culture preservation, and social pride. Let’s not wait until it’s too late to rediscover what we’ve already forgotten.